Lymington is a Georgian market and port town in Hampshire situated on the west bank of the Lymington River in the Solent. It has more of a coastal orientation than a beach one, with a yachting community represented by hundreds of boats moored within sheltered waters. There is fantastic walking along the shore past protected wetlands which face the Solent and Isle of Wight. It also has the added benefit of being located at the southern border of the New Forest.
When to go
Summer is the busiest season here, with boat owners, casual tourists and the occasional cruise ship coming ashore to enjoy the clothing shops, Saturday market, local pubs and maritime environment at The Quay.
The annual Lymington Seafood Festival (taking place this weekend) is a popular summer event. Proceedings include a demo stage to watch chefs in action, a cookery school for adults and children and barbecue masterclasses.
Accommodation rates and crowds decrease in November. The St Barbe Museum & Art Gallery in New Street (Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm) provides tourist information. .
How to get there
The Lymington line is a branch of the London Waterloo to Weymouth line. Change at Brockenhurst for Lymington Town or Pier. Bluestar bus routes cover the coastal area; the 6 runs between Southampton and Lymington. .
Where to stay
A friendly welcome awaits at Britannia House, steps away from Lymington Town Station and overlooking Haven Quay boatyard. Quirky furnishings, splendid art and personal touches from the host bring the Georgian house alive. Three double rooms from £150 with breakfast.
Stanwell House, a 27-room hotel in the centre of town, has just been renovated with lots of chintz and it is gorgeous. There is a cosy bar, airy restaurant and courtyard tables. Some rooms are dog-friendly for £15 surcharge. Doubles from £225, room only.
You need to head inland for an accessible option. Try The Pig (doubles from £255, room only) and Careys Manor (doubles from £195).
Day one
Up with the sun
Start the day at The Larder in Earley Court, tucked away behind the north side of the High Street. As you relax at an outdoor table, you can watch Lymington residents heading for weekend shopping. Sourdough slices topped with an array of goodies, such as avocado, bacon and salmon, are the main offering.
Souvenir hunting
There has been a market in Lymington since 1250 and today more than 90 stalls line the High Street on Saturdays, and serve customers from 8am–3pm. You’ll find a range of items, such as South African cured meats, hand-crafted jewellery and plants.
Continue west past the market to the junction of St Thomas Street, where there are some galleries. Chalk’s, a family business based in a Grade I listed building, has paintings and crafts by local artists. If you are with children, head east to the waterfront for beach toys and souvenirs.
Don’t miss
Lymington Sea Water Swimming Baths is an unheated, open-air lido with views to the Isle of Wight. It dates to 1833 and is possibly the oldest of its kind in the UK. The inflatables sessions are every child’s dream (adults love them too). It is advisable to book ahead online but walk-ins are available if there is space. Hours vary, check online. Two-hour sessions from £10.
Time for a sundowner
The Quay on Lymington River is the place to be at sunset. The outdoor tables overlooking the harbour at The Ship Inn are a hot commodity in summer.
Dinner reservation
A pleasant 15-minute walk along the waterfront brings you to The Haven Bar & Restaurant (Mon-Sun 9am-11pm, booking essential), located next to the private Yacht Haven club. The restaurant has views over the Solent and Isle of Wight. In town, The High Street Kitchen (closed Mon) serves options such as classic Sunday roasts.
Foodies with a big budget are talking about Elderflower (closed Mon-Tues) with its artful presentations of set tasting menus (four courses £85; seven courses for £105, plus wine pairing for £90), which might include confit chalk stream trout with hibiscus sauce and celeriac remoulade or smoked eel and mushroom stew.
Day two
Hit the beach
The Solent Way passes through Lymington. The 60-mile coastal walking trail includes seafront, yachting harbours, marshland and saltings, which are regularly covered by the tide. A four-mile stretch from Lymington takes you to The Gun Inn in Keyhaven, which dates to the 1600s. You will walk past lots of wildfowl at the Lymington and Keyhaven Marshes Nature Reserve and have unobstructed views of the Isle of Wight. Keep going and you will reach Milford on Sea with its colourful hut-lined shingle beach and independent shops and cafés (alternatively, the X1 bus runs from Lymington Post Office in 15 minutes).
If you want a shorter walk, there is a circular route (4.3 miles total) through Lymington Nature Reserve. A short detour by the Salterns Sailing Club takes you to The Chequers Inn at Ridgeway Lane, where you can enjoy a pub grub lunch, then head back to town past the old Lymington salt works.
Lunch time
If you walk the straight route out to Keyhaven, the dog-friendly Gun Inn serves pub food that’s a cut above for the area. There is also a big garden. Food from 12pm-6pm Sun, and 12pm-8pm Wed-Sat.
Time to relax
Ferries leave Keyhaven (near The Gun Inn) in summer for Hurst Castle, a 16th-century coastal fort, about every 20 minutes depending on tide. The last boat back is at 5.30pm.
A final treat
It’s got to be Toot Sweets (closed Mon), a family-run ice cream parlour in the centre of town. It serves ice cream, of course, but also bubble waffles and milkshakes.
Emily Laurence Baker is author of Bradt’s New Forest Slow guide
Three things you might not know about Lymington…
1) Salt-making was Lymington’s most important industry for hundreds of years, peaking in 1760, when there were more than 160 pans working. You can see former boiling houses and water channels off Ridgeway Lane.
2) Lymington was a smuggling hub during the 18th and 19th centuries. There are still tunnels beneath the High Street (although not as many as some locals claim).
3) Buckland Rings, one of the best-preserved Iron Age hill forts in this part of Hampshire, is just north of town off the A337.