As 12 new hopefuls trooped into The Great British Sewing Bee work room to be greeted by faithful judges Patrick Grant and Esme Young, there was an unfamiliar edge in the air among the smiling faces and good-natured jokes. I immediately had the distinct feeling that this year’s series would be… watchable.

I have historically struggled with the staid sensibleness of the programme, now 10 series in – its neat stitches and church fête ambience. And while it might be foolish to judge a whole series on just the opening episode, it already feels less tedious. Maybe even fun.

What’s behind Sewing Bee‘s resuscitation? Undoubtedly, new host Kiell Smith-Bynoe – who made his first appearance as presenter in last year’s Christmas special after competing in 2021 – has a lot to do with it. His straight-faced silliness undercuts the programme’s inherent tweeness. One of his jokes actually made me snort with laughter: defining a “casual” dress, Smith-Bynoe explained: “That means you can wear other dresses and that dress can’t get jealous.”

Another redemption comes in this year’s eclectic casting. There’s 74-year-old retiree Janet from Yorkshire, who has a painting of her and her husband enjoying an “afternoon off” (wink wink) pinned to her station, and 52-year-old Neil from Leicester, who gives historical tours and comes accompanied by his horrifying ventriloquist dummy Terry Pastry. Never mind their sewing, both deserve credit for the sheer entertainment value they bring to the work room.

More than just eccentric, this year’s sewers are also stylish – something you’d think would be pivotal in a competition about clothes but has so far taken a backseat. Copywriter Alex, events planner Ailsa, and hospitality worker Suzy in particular have distinctive aesthetics (think Cos, LF Markey and Oliver Bonas, respectively) that instantly separate them from the rest of the pack. Finally, Sewing Bee seems to be embracing design as well as sewing skills.

For their initial challenge, the contestants were asked to make A-line denim skirts. That might sound simple, but the rigid fabric and top stitching made for a deceptively difficult garment. Every one of the sewers struggled, with ruffle-enthusiast Suzy coming last. Alex’s black denim/green thread combo came in second despite having no buttons, while psychology student Pascha’s impeccably neat (if unfinished) yellow skirt clinched the top spot.

As ever, next was the “transformation” challenge, in which the budding sewers had to turn T-shirts into new ensembles. Desperate to redeem herself after the skirt debacle, Suzy started furiously plaiting strands of fabric to make a jazzy neckline and ultimately came first. Honourable mentions go to Ailsa, who whipped up an androgynous cardigan in her trademark patchwork neutrals, and Alex, who turned out a surprisingly elegant Breton stripe two-piece.

As the episode geared up for its final challenge – those made-to-measure “casual” day dresses – the contestants’ personal styles truly came into focus. For the first time watching Sewing Bee, I saw garments that I genuinely wanted to wear – Alex’s drop waist gingham number was delightfully off-duty, and Ailsa’s denim wrap dress with its tactical clip waist closure looked cool and comfortable. I also coveted drag queen Luke’s utilitarian offering, the toughness of which contrasted nicely with its delicate, hand-painted fabric.

Ultimately, Suzy’s black and white dress made from a reversible duvet cover was pronounced the garment of the week, while the fumbled collar on Neil’s 1970s-inspired dress saw him sent packing. I’m pretty sure his creepy doll Terry Pastry is haunted, though, so perhaps we’ll see him in the work room again.

Clothes are so much more than fabric and seams. They telegraph messages about cultural belonging, sexuality and gender, social class and interests; we all know that trying on a new outfit can feel like slipping into a whole new person. Expanding its focus beyond straightforward skill to encompass taste and identity, Sewing Bee is finally tapping into what makes clothes truly interesting – and it’s not neat hems.

The Great British Sewing Bee continues next Tuesday at 9pm on BBC One.