Eight metres underground, my headtorch illuminating the trail, the air was cool. While descending steep steps and squeezing through tight tunnels, I had found the fastest way to get beneath the skin of a holiday destination.
I was underground in Znojmo, a walled, medieval town in South Moravia, Czechia. The region borders Austria and Slovakia and possesses grand castles, a cuisine that features dishes such as knodel (boiled dumplings) and garlic soup; and vineyards – it has been dubbed the Moravian Tuscany, thanks to its verdant, hilly terrain.
Even with these charms, and having an international airport in the city of Brno, South Moravia welcomed a little over 690,300 overseas tourists last year. Prague, for comparison, gathered 5.8 million in 2023.
Crowd-free Znojmo, founded around 1226 by King Ottokar I of Bohemia, has a population of 34,000. It’s about two and a half hours’ drive from the capital.
It proved a good base from which to see the region, as well as being cost-effective. Four-star hotel rooms start from less than £60 a night and attractions are well priced – adult entry to the tunnels starts from £4.
The labyrinthine tunnels date to the 14th century. They once offered a refuge during wars and unrest, and served as storage space. Over time, the system of passageways and cellars grew to 27 kilometres (17 miles).
For centuries, it seems, the tunnels were either forgotten or purposely kept secret should enemies discover them. There is a lack of historical documentation until the Second World War. They were left exposed after the town was bombed, before being rebuilt.
Now they are a standout attraction for tourists. As well as classic sightseeing routes, there are “adrenaline trails” divided into three options based on difficulty.
A more conventional way to understand the history and modern-day culture of a place is, of course, by trying its food. And so, I continued my education at Reztaurace, a microbrewery in the grounds of Znojmo Castle, where nobility first built property in the 11th century.
It was a full house. Diners sat in front of bowls of fragrant beef broth and wild garlic soup (£2.50) followed by beef tenderloin with dumplings (£8.35). The venue appeared to be a local favourite – every accent I heard was Czech. As the afternoon was sunny and 20°C, I headed for the beer garden, with its view of the green valley below and swifts flying above.
After lunch, as chickens squawked in the sun not far from the former executioner’s house outside the castle grounds, a tour guide, Jana Rubínová, revealed more of the medieval heritage.
St Nicholas’s Church dominated the scene. It was rebuilt in 1335 after a fire during Anne of Luxembourg’s wedding. But the only remnant of the original Znojmo Castle is the Rotunda of St Catherine, which faces the cathedral on the hill opposite, the interior of which is covered in Romanesque frescoes.
As the tour ended with a view of the Carpathian Mountains, seen from the tower of old Znojmo town hall, I asked Jana whether she sees many Britons in the area.
“Maybe because we’re not Unesco-listed, but we don’t get as many as we would hope, it is still mainly Czech, Austrian or Polish visitors,” she said.
While the region is still courting international visitors, I enjoyed the benefits of it remaining under the tourist radar. Later, in Enoteka, a brewery turned wine bar, there was ample space to linger while considering the profile of the Czechia’s smallest wine region. There were more than 120 wines to try (from 50p per small sample to £3.40 for a glass).
The next morning, more regal history awaited in the Vranov nad Dyjí castle. This Moravian palace set high above the river Dyje, was built by the Dukes of Bohemia to defend the region’s southern border.
But South Moravia’s greatest splendour was still to be found, in nature. I set off on an e-bike to Podyjí National Park. Its 63 square kilometres, which include flood plains, the river Dyje and forest, and it offers a habitat to species such as otters, beavers, wild boars and – the park’s symbol – the black stork.
My ride began with a tough hill, but the bike’s motor allowed me to tackle it with ease. As I took a path that vaguely followed the Iron Curtain, my guide, David Grossman, told me that, in the 60s and 70s – before the fall of the curtain – his father would regularly walk through the national park and, often, border police would return him home.
The initially dry landscape evolved into one that recalled the Alps in summer, with poppies at the edges of fields and the air fragrant with elderflowers. En route, some of the former Soviet watchtowers had been repurposed as viewing platforms over grape vines. I parked up at Sobes Vineyard, in the heart of the park. Its produce benefits from a local microclimate.
A glass of dry Riesling was about 70p. Its tartness was much appreciated after the four-hour cycle and the slight buzz propelled me for the 15 minutes or so left to my hotel at Thaya Winery.
Back in Znojmo the next day, I became more acquainted with the River Dyje.
Paddling a three-person canoe (costing from £17 per day) with a guide in the back, ducks swam alongside us and dragonflies soared past.
As I looked up at the bridge that connects Znojmo to Vienna, just an hour and a half away, I realised I had seen the region from many levels, but that I would still return to see more.
Getting there
Ryanair has direct flights from Stansted to Brno from £40 return, ryanair.comStaying there
Hotel Clemar has doubles from £56 per night, hotelclemar.cz
Thaya Winery has doubles from £80 per night, vinarstvithaya.czMore information
visitczechia.com
south-moravia.com