As someone who counts down the days to discovering Magnum’s new summer flavours, I was surprised and more than a little disappointed to find out that the naughtiest UPF food of all – and the one chosen by Dr Chris van Tulleken to open Ultra-Processed People, his bestselling book on the subject – is ice cream.
Here is a food inextricably linked to joy: something we turn to on sunny days or to cheer ourselves up, a food that means good times and holidays, and is undoubtedly at the forefront of many childhood memories. But, notes Van Tulleken, after taking his family to the park for ice creams, there was something suspicious about his daughter’s tub of pistachio. “It was more or less untouched,” he writes. “A perfect glistening green ball of pistachio. It took me a moment to realise that this was peculiar. How was it still a ball? The outside of the tub was actually warm to the touch. Why hadn’t the ice cream melted? I tried a spoonful. It was a tepid gelatinous foam. Something had stopped the ice cream from melting.”
Van Tulleken goes on to explore the ingredients, discovering alongside the 4 per cent Bronte pistachios, “stabilisers, emulsifiers, gums, lecithin, glucose, a number of different oils… these are the hallmarks of UPF.”
The most surprising part? This ice cream wasn’t a Mr Whippy or a Tangle Twister, but what most people would consider a somewhat fancy and wholesome brand, Hackney Gelato.
Ice cream is an outlier among foods when it comes to ultra-processing, as it is so hard for manufacturers to produce it in bulk without using so many of the additives we are coming to realise are, over time, worrying for our long-term health.
“Hackney Gelato are not alone in using these types of ingredients,” points out Van Tulleken. “They are nearly universal in ice cream you buy in shops but are not found in typical kitchens.”
The best low UPF ice cream
Is there any way to dodge ultra-processed food without missing out on essential summer ice creams? “I always start this conversation with the caveat that ice creams and lollies can absolutely be included in a balanced and varied diet, even if they’re not the lowest-sugar or not a UPF,” says Lucy Upton, a paediatric dietitian, feeding therapist, and founder of The Children’s Dietitian. “If you’re looking for UPF-free ice cream, Yeo Valley Vanilla and Waitrose Duchy Organic Vanilla are both non-UPF, but it’s worth noting that their price tag may not make them accessible to all. And, of course, just because they are UPF-free doesn’t mean they are low in fat or sugar.”
“When choosing ice cream, go for options that use simple, natural ingredients like milk, cream, and real fruit,” recommends Lucy Diamond, registered dietitian and clinical director for innovation at NHS weight management provider, Oviva. “It’s best to avoid ice creams that have a long list of artificial additives, preservatives and synthetic flavours.”
She says gelato such as the brand Remeo is one of the healthiest and most natural options, though it’s on the expensive side – or look at plant-based options such as Jude’s vegan ice creams which are often made from a coconut base and are lower in saturated fat (however, they may not be any lower in calories or sugar).
The best low UPF lollies
Brightly-coloured ice lollies often look suspiciously full of fake ingredients. However Ocado stocks Lickalix lollies, which are dairy-, nut-, gluten- and lactose-free, as well as entirely UPF-free, including its Citrus Burst, Cherry Cola, Mango Raspberry Swirl and Chocolate flavours.
Upton recommends Cocos Organic Yoghurt Tubes especially for children who are dairy-free, or frozen fruit dipped in chocolate or peanut butter, such as Tru Fru or Pukpip lollies which aren’t entirely UPF-free, but lower in sugar and higher in fibre than most frozen treats. Claudi & Fin yoghurt lollies contain stabilisers but also live bio cultures that are good for guts.
Both our experts also like PIP Organic – “a good choice for healthy BBQ treats due to its use of 100% organic ingredients, ensuring no artificial additives or added sugars,” says Diamond. “Their products, such as Rainbow Fruit Lollies and Fruity Water Ice Lollies, are made from nutrient-rich organic fruits and vegetables, providing vitamins and antioxidants without the health risks associated with ultra-processed foods. “
The best homemade ice cream recipes
Searches for ice cream machine on John Lewis are up 151 per cent compared to this time last year. Searches on Waitrose.com also suggest we are more interested in home-made options for 2024, as compared to 2023 (January to June), with honeycomb and strawberry proving the most popular flavours.
I won’t pretend that you can whip up your own UPF-free home-made ice cream with as little effort as it takes to pop out and buy a Magnum, but some approaches are easier than others. I am without an ice cream maker at the moment, due to my long-running grief at spending over £350 on a Sage Smart Scoop that lasted only a few years.
Therefore I have started to spend more time making semifreddo and no-churn ice creams. Semifreddo means “half-frozen” and is a sort of ice cream cake. Recipes typically ask you to beat egg whites and whip cream then fold the two together, along with your choice of flavour such as vanilla, coffee, fruit or nuts. You freeze the mixture in a loaf tin so it makes an impressive centrepiece pudding, and is easy to slice off portions for after-school sweet treats. It is really easy to blend up any over-ripening fruit, such as bananas and berries, and make them into a semifreddo. My current favourite is a mango and Tajín (Mexican chilli and lime seasoning) semifreddo from brilliant Bake Off contestant Benjamina Ebuehi.
Nigella is the queen of easy no churn ice cream recipes. The best rely on alcohol to make them scoopable, so sadly don’t really fall into the “healthy” category, but make up for it with deliciousness. When you freeze an ice cream mix without churning it, instead of freezing slowly as it is made plump with air, the liquid freezes into ice crystals. This is why you’ll find it hard to scoop, and possibly find a layer of crunchy ice on top. The addition of alcohol makes it freeze more slowly, and remain scoopable. They also call for condensed milk, which is made from only milk and sugar but is incredibly sweet.
Still hungry for an ice cream? The best advice I have is to go for your favourite and enjoy it.
Hackney Gelato were approached for comment