Wedged between Liverpool and North Wales, the Wirral peninsula is often overlooked in favour of its better-known neighbours. However, take time to explore this corner of the UK and you will discover a blend of wide, open beaches, idyllic countryside and lively towns. One of its most popular holiday destinations is the seaside town of West Kirby.
The sandy beach, surrounding walks and a man-made saltwater marine lake, which stretches across 52 acres and is 5ft deep, are its main draws. Surrounded by a footpath, the lake is a safe place to swim and to try a variety of water sports.
Away from the coast, the Wirral Way is a scenic rural walking and cycling route following an old railway line. The town also has plenty of independent shops to browse, as well as cosy cafés and pubs to shelter in when the weather is unkind.
When to go
During the warmer months, the golden sand of West Kirby beach is often busy. Some venture out to explore the cluster of tidal islands – Hilbre Island, Little Eye and Middle Eye (though visitors must be aware of tide times).
Sandcastle competitions are being held on the beach on 9 and 29 June, while, on 22 June, Wirral Country Park (around 10 minutes’ drive from West Kirby) is hosting To The Coast, a micro-festival for families. Meanwhile, Taylor Swift is performing in Liverpool, at Anfield Stadium (just over an hour away by train), from 13-15 June.
How to get there
West Kirby is served by Merseyrail with regular services to Liverpool Lime Street station. Alternatively, the 437 bus runs between Liverpool city centre and West Kirby. The rail station is in the centre of town, which is walkable. There are several pay and display car parks, and free parking along the promenade.
Where to stay
The one-bedroom Brookfield Cottage has views of Ashton Park and the Wirral Way. Self-catered, it has a garden, patio and kitchenette. It is a seven-minute walk to the train station and the centre of town, and 14 minutes to the lake. From £240 for a minimum stay of two nights (booking.com).
42 Caldy Road has B&B rooms and self-catered accommodation. The bedrooms have views over the estuary. Small, well-behaved dogs are welcome. Doubles from £110 (42caldyroad.co.uk).
Two miles away in Greasby, bike-friendly Premier Inn has accessible rooms from £110.
Day One
Up with the sun
West Kirby is the start of the Wirral Way, a 12.2-mile, traffic-free path running to Hooton. It takes you through bucolic countryside and along the coastal estuary of the River Dee. For a shorter stroll, walk the 2.5 miles to Thurstaston, where you’ll find Wirral Country Park, before doubling back to West Kirby.
Upon your return, head to Lateral for breakfast. This Scandinavian-inspired bistro serves dishes such as dill and orange scrambled eggs on sourdough, as well as far-from-basic vegan options, including smokey maple beans.
Souvenir hunting
Head to The Crescent, a picturesque, curved street lined with handsome Tudor buildings that are home to high street brands, local stores and charity shops. Adjacent is Banks Road, which has plenty of independent shops. Pick up clothes, accessories and home décor at Mooch or browse homeware at Brand Designs Wirral.
Don’t miss
Stroll along the waterfront along the promenade and on to the path that surrounds the marine lake. The walk takes around half-an-hour and offers views of the mountains of Eryri (Snowdownia).
Windsurfers rip along the lake thanks to the strong breezes coming off the Irish Sea. If you fancy a go yourself, pop into Wirral Watersports Centre on the northern end of the lake, or try out dinghy sailing, paddleboarding, kayaking, canoeing or powerboating.
Time for a sundowner
The West Kirby Tap is the best place to warm up after a session on the water. Choose from cask and keg beers, lagers, pale ales and bottled craft beers, before grabbing a seat by the woodburner.
Dinner reservation
The Tapas Kitchen serves Spanish tapas, from meat and fish dishes to vegan options, such as La Mancha-style pisto, and a good selection of Spanish wines. Closed Mon-Tues.
Day Two
Hit the beach
West Kirby beach is accessible, with wheelchairs available for hire from the Wirral Watersports Centre next door. Although it’s only 300 metres long, at low tide there is more than 2km of sand to explore.
During low tide, take a walk out to Hilbre Island. Hilbre is a haven for wildlife – and a stopping-off point for migratory birds such as wildfowl and waders. During summer, you can spot grey seals and, if you’re lucky, whales and dolphins.
It’s important you double-check tide times before you head out, as the islands are cut off for up to four hours a day. It takes about an hour to walk from the mainland to Hilbre, and you’ll need to ensure you leave the island at least two to three hours before high tide is due.
Lunch time
Tucked down a side street off The Crescent, Aubergine Café is a popular hangout. Making the most of organic local ingredients, the menu features classics, including eggs benedict, and imaginative sandwiches such as goat’s cheese and beetroot.
No trip to the seaside is complete without fish and chips, and Marigolds has been serving the local community for 21 years. Portions are generous and their thick, hand-cut chips are a favourite. They also have a gluten-free menu.
Time to relax
Ashton Park is a relaxing pocket of green just a 10-minute walk from the promenade. It has a lake, gardens, children’s play area, multi-use games area, bowling greens and pavilions, tennis courts, football pitch, tea shop and toilets.
Alternatively, take a 25-minute stroll north along the coast to Red Rocks Nature Reserve. Covering 10 acres of sand dunes, reedbeds and marsh, it is a wonderful spot for wildlife-watching. Keep an eye out for wild orchids, which flower from mid-spring to late summer. In spring and autumn, you might spot migratory birds.
If it’s raining, learn about the Vikings who lived in the town at West Kirby Museum and discover artefacts from as far back as the 12th century. Open on Saturdays, 10am–1pm.
A final treat
End your trip with a scoop of artisan gelato from The Ice Cream Shop. The owner, John “Kipper” Hughes, encourages customers to challenge him to come up with innovative flavours. They also serve vegan and dairy-free ice cream, and almost 40 flavours of bubble tea.
Three things you might not know about West Kirby
1) West Kirby originates from the Viking word “Kirkjubyr”, meaning “village with a church”.
2) Daniel Craig attended nearby Hilbre High School.
3) Local legend has it that Hilbre Island is home to a huge monster crab that lives in Lady’s Cave.